Drinking and eating are indeed a preoccupation here in Europe. Wine it seems is abundant and all of the homes I have visited have one commonality, the wine cellar. It is a cherished spot in any house. Kate's father Stini walked me through his tiered cool cellar. "Oh this one is very good. Und this one as well." He handed me those and picked out two more. Being the guest of honor each bottle was uncorked and I was given the first taste. Kate smiled her wonderful smile. "Oh this is great." Tessie, her mom saluted me with the same smile, "we are delighted you have come here to visit. So you like Switzerland? It is not so beautiful as Maui but different." "I'm having a great time Tess. The mountains and lakes are so very lovely. And of course so are you." A sheepish grin and upward shoulder movement suggested her delight. "Charles you are charming." "Not so much as me", Stini said. "Oh sure. You never say that to me. Laughter followed. Kate's brother said not very much. Unlike the rest of the family he was not so out going. "Charles do you like sauna?" "Well to tell the truth never been in one Tessie." "I must show you ours. Come." "She loves that sauna", Stini interjected as she led the way. She opened the door to the cedar lined interior. "You must try it. We will do so later. This will be your towel." I perceived a bit of flirtatiousness in her movement. She was very attractive. "The sauna keeps your skin smooth. Kate always joins me when she visits. But...later." We returned to the patio and resumed conversation with the others. Kate insisted we walk out towards the lake. We passed both apple and cherry trees as we walked the earthen pathway. A high church steeple pushed towards the blue lightly clouded sky off to our right.
.
The gentle wash of the water over the polished black rocks added a meditative sound. "I sit here often gathering my thoughts." "It certainly is soothing." "We should walk a little through the town. My mother is preparing a special meal for tonight." "She is special." "She thinks the same of you Charles. We all do." "You're too nice Kate." "Com'on let's walk." She held my hand as we walked, pointing out places and reminiscing of days past. "My best friend lived there.That is my mother's sister's place. She just passed away last year. Thomas and Stini are fixing it up now, They plan to sell it." It was the same Swiss picture; Shutters and flower boxes. There is a very orderly fashion to everything. We pass a small stable attached to the side of a house. A cow is eating straw inside. It is somehow beyond clean and even it has flower boxes on either side of the open top half of the dutch doors.
Upon reentry to Kate's parents house the smells of cooking food floated through the air. "What are you making Tess? Can I help you?" "Why don't you open that white wine." I removed the bottle from the ice bucket and uncorked it. Kate who was beside me now handed me each of three glasses which I filled. Tess wiped her hands on her apron and accepted the glass I had brought to her. "Cheers. I am making Viener Schnitzel, simple but good. Here try this." She handed me a paper thin sliced and rolled reddish meat. "Here, dip it in this." The sauce tasted of horseradish. "You've had this before?" "Umm...I don't think so. Both Kate and Tess laughed. "Charles it is horse meat. Good...Yes?" "Really? Yes it is good. First time for me Kate." "Here, have another". With it she offered from a platter crusty bread and what appeared to be brie cheese. "Shall I help bring the food to the table", I offered as I nibbled. "Yes, I will help as well." "I love veal. It smells so good. One time as a kid I went to a friends house and his mother asked if I would stay for dinner. She was frying veal cutlets. I ate seven. "Mom! Charles is hungry make more." "No,no,no...It's quite fine." Stini appeared with more wine. " Ah, ES ist good!" "Where is your brother?" "Oh, he eats at his girlfriend's most evenings.""Gutten Appetit!" The meal was extremely good. I controlled my veal consumption to two servings but lost count to the amount of wine I drank. We must have sat there for hours. I do remember washing some dishes with Stini's disapproval and have faint images of myself in the sauna with Kate and Tess. I do recall a shot of Kirsch. I awoke on the couch in the living room. I could hear morning movement and sounds; running water in the bathroom, a whistling tea pot from the kitchen.
Touring through the Alps with my Swiss friends Peter and Kate was indeed seeing a part of Europe that one would never see as a tourist. I had met them in Hawaii my home and now I was in their home. On Maui I had met Kate's parents. We drove north from Lake Garda heading for a region of Switzerland called Uri. It is in central Switzerland where the Reuss river flows. As with the rest of this small country the mountains are the backdrop to everything.
"I met Kate in high school. She lived in Erstfeld and I in a smaller town. but not so far. My father worked for the railroad. Stini, you met him. He worked as an engineer. I know Kate's parents thought she could have done better then me." "Oh Peter that is not so." "Yeah sure! Anyway my folks' place is not far from here."
The house sat on a gentle hill. It had red shutters and a gabled roof. It was old and not very fancy. The railway tracks ran along the back property line. Peter's father and mom were older then I had imagined. They did not speak much English. We acknowledged each other mostly with smiles and nodding heads. Peter's dad was thin and bore the appearance of years of hard work. His mother grasped the arm of her son with a sense of affirmation that he had done well. Peter showed me his childhood room. The valley and distant mountain pass were the view out the window, with a scarred wooden desk in front of it. All told it was a simple, honest place. Peter was now finishing architecture school. We had a nice lunch. Kate remained inside helping with dishes as Peter and I walked to a place where we sat amongst some wild flowers. "I like being in Zurick. There was nothing ever much to do here." "Well my friend I'll tell you this beats the hell out of the Bronx where I was raised." "Ahh well it was okay. I know Kate wants to get to Erstfeld. Stini and Tess are looking forward to seeing you again." "Whatever Peter. I like it here. It is relaxed and your folks are nice." Peter's father was sitting at a table alongside the house. He waved us over and handed each of us a beer. He smiled and we clicked our bottles. Gravel crunched beneath our tires as we waved goodbye. Nothing much was said as we drove through town in the valley below. The setting became more orderly with fenced properties and newer looking homes. Kate's parents bubbled as we entered their home. Stini, Kate's dad slapped my back as if an old lost friend had arrived. Tess gave me kisses upon both cheeks. "Oh sit! Kathy give me a hand." They entered the kicthen and before long we were all seated around the dining table with all sorts of appetizers and several bottles of wine. Peter however did not sit with us. He was standing next to my chair. "Charles I am going back to Zurick. I'll see you in a couple of days." There wasn't that usual smile on his face. Tess said "oh we need to take some photos". We went outside and Kate's brother who had been outside doing something or other appeared. "This is Charles, Thomas." We shook hands. Tess handed him a camera and he took several photos of Kate, Tess, Peter and I.
Sally and George bid us farewell as we headed out on our way to Italy. "Tschuss!...I really had I great time here in Cudrefin. We must stay in touch. If you come to Hawaii call me please." "You are so welcome Charles...Shoot dah Moon!" Both simultaneously turned and indeed shot us the moon as we headed off. "They are so funny. Can't believe their doing it." "They loved it Charles...Something American", said Peter.
At midday we had arrived in Como, Italy. "Well we must have lunch and some wine." Kate smiled brightly as she said that. Here we were in another gorgeous place. Wonderful villas ringed the lake. The city streets were cobblestoned and the smell of Italian food drifted into the air. Voices were a bit louder here but joyous. I noticed more hand gesturing between people. We decided on a Pizzeria where we would have our luncheon. The owner had beckoned us to his restaurant by moving a chair out from under a table, bowing and pointing at the blackboard menu. Kate, Peter and I nodded to each other and sat at the table. It is such a wonderful thing to be seated outdoors. With the waiter approaching Kate asked if it was okay for her to do the ordering. We agreed that she would order and whatever it was would be fine. Besides, she spoke perfect Italian.
"E perdere cio che avete per il pranzo?"
"Condivi deremo dal menu. Facciaamoci antipasto. E pizza con prochutto e olive per favore. An che una insalata di casa...Posso vedere la lista del vini...Avremo la Amorone."
"Splendido, tornera presto."
"I ordered, of course a pizza, antipasto, salad and a very special wine of this region." The wine that she had ordered was a red wine called Amarone. She went on to explain how the grapes were left in the sun to dry somewhat before the fermentation process. "Charles you will love this wine!"
"Il vostro vino!"
"Il vino a proprio piacimento?"
"Grande! Grazie."
"Antipasto. pane e pesto. Buon divertimento!"
"Grazie."
"Prego!"
Kate was exactly right. The wine was fabulous. We ate, drank and enjoyed each other. "Bellissimo!" "I didn't know you spoke Italian Charles." "Not much Kate, only a few simple words. Here's to us!" "Oh there's more Charles", Peter said. "We have more driving to do. Our next stop is Lake Garda."
As we headed east towards our next destination Peter explained that Lake Garda was the largest lake in Italy. "It is the best place we have in the Alps for windsurfing. It is not like Maui. No big waves there, but the wind is good and we will rent equipment there and you will see for yourself." "Sure...It should be fun. I am having such a great time." "We are so glad you came to visit Charles." Kate was napping in the back seat as we sped along the highway. We were driving at what seemed a rather good clip, but out of nowhere cars would just zoom past us so quickly you could'nt read the license plates. We recognized one Alfa Romeo, a Ferrari, a Lamborghini and a Maserati. In masculine response Peter floored the Volkswagen's accelerator and passed an older Fiat with not quite the same intensity as the other cars had done to us. It was comic relief. "Peter...Bist du verruckt verlangsamen!" Kate yelled had out pushing upon Peter's shoulder. "Okay! Okay, she told me to slow down and I'm crazy...Women!" We rounded a corner and there below was a panorama of Lake Garda.
Bellissimo!
"Aufstehen mein Freund ist es an Nachmittag. Wir werden die Stadt Fahrrad. Es ist en herrlichen Tag. Sie haben noch einen Kater haben Sie?"
"What was that?" I opened my eyes with Peter standing over me with a broad smile on his face. "I said you should get up. It is already afternoon and we are going to ride to the village on our bikes. I also asked if you have a hangover." "Okay...I feel fine. I need a quick shower." "Yeah sure we will wait for you, no hurry." As we were headed to town a picture entered my mind. It looked rather like this.
"That was certainly on hell of a night". "You were funny Charles." Peter told me how I had shown everyone how to do "Shoot the Moon". Kate chimed in, "It was great, so funny...Remember? We all went outside and dropped our pants and shot the moon. We will never forget." Everyone was laughing as we rode the bicycles into town.
It was all Hansel and Gretel to me. The fountain in the middle of town and the buildings that lined the streets all appeared as if from a story book. We settled into a cafe and and sipped coffee and ate strudel. We then continued to stroll around.
I picked up some bread at la boulangerie, pork sausages at la charcuterie and cigarettes at le tabac.
It was a leisurely ride back to the house where we all took a cat nap. A few hours later George suggested we take his boat out upon the lake.
Kate sunned upon the deck of the sailboat as I perused the scenery from the cockpit. This day here in Cudrefin had been yet another magical mystery tour.
Switzerland is this place of lofty mountains jutting high into the heavens with green valley hamlets caressing clear deep lakes. The roadways straddle the majestic Alps and continue through abundant tunnels. The engineering is a wonder of man's achievement. Crisp air rushes into the Volkswagen as we drive from Zurick towards Cudrefin, a small town that hugs a vast lake named Neuchatel, the name of city on the other side.
"My cousin has a lovely place in Cudrefin Charles. We are to meet Sally and her husband George in Aarau for lunch. Peter and I love this place and we think you will as well." "I am already loving everything. These highways are amazing." "You know my father worked on these tunnels. He is an engineer." "Extraordinary!" At about noon we could see Aarau.
We moved into the old town. Peter pointed out the eaves of the buildings. "We call them Dachhimmel. Quite lovely, don't you think?" "Wonderful, yes."
This was a charming old town. "I hope you like this restaurant" Kate said as we walked towards the entrance. Sally and George were already there and we joined them at their table in the outdoor courtyard.
I was indeed tired but excited as I boarded the train in Paris. It had been some time since I had last seen Peter. We had shared so many good times in Hawaii. Now I was about to experience his Switzerland. The train pulled from the station and quickly accelerated. The countryside of France whizzed by. I snacked on bread and cheese. The red wine washed it down and also sent me into dreamland. Before I knew it my destination, Zurick. I stepped out upon the station platform and in a few short minutes Peter was standing before me. "It is so good to see you." His girlfriend Kate rushed from behind him and threw her arms around me. "Oh Charles, you are here. Peter and I are so thrilled. How was your trip?" "It was long but here I am. It is great seeing you two." Peter grabbed my bag. "Okay, we go to my car."
"Hello." "Aloha, Charles." It was my Swiss friend Peter on the phone. "I'm calling to invite you to Switzerland." "What?" "Yes, I want you to come over here. I am not able to go to Hawaii this summer, so you come here." "Oh, Peter I can't afford that." "Yes you can...I have all these miles that I need to use. If I don't I will lose them. So you will use them, quite simple." We went back and forth, me saying no, he saying yes. "I insist! We will have a great time." I finally gave in to his insistence. Two weeks later I boarded a flight out of Honolulu. The itinerary included two layovers, first Dallas, Texas then Raleigh, North Carolina. Thirty two hours after leaving Honolulu I landed in Paris.
